Sunday, August 21, 2011

The Bicycle City

Hello, family!  Depending on how tired Katie and I are in the middle of our journey home next weekend, this may be the last time you hear from us!  It's been a fun journey for us, and we're sad to have it winding down.  We've got plenty to do this last week though, so there won't be too much time for sorrow.  

As ever, we had a busy week.  After our bike trip last Saturday, we decided we loved having bikes so much that we just kept them until the end of the program.  It's been nice, because Cambridge is an extremely bike-oriented city.  In fact, the students aren't even allowed to own cars.  When you ride a bike here, you feel like a king - when you ring your bell in a mass of pedestrians, it's sort of like Moses parting the red sea.  It's sort of interesting, because pedestrians are the lowest rung of the food chain here, as opposed to Provo, where cars will stop for you when you're on the sidewalk just thinking of crossing.

Yesterday Katie and I took a trip to London on our own, and had some fun adventures...  As some of you may know, we're both fans of the British sci-fi series Doctor Who, which starred David Tennant and Catherine Tate a few years ago (while not so well known in the US, they're kind of a big deal over here).  This summer, they've been starring in Much Ado about Nothing as Benedick and Beatrice.  The tickets sold out pretty quickly, and they've been going for 150 + pounds on eBay, but the theatre saves 20 tickets for each performance and holds a lottery for them at the beginning of every day.  If you win the lottery, you can buy a pretty good seat for 10 pounds, which isn't bad at all.  So we got to London in the morning, sat in line for the lottery for a while, and to make a long story short, we got a ticket!  Well, Katie did, but I was able to buy a standing ticket a little later.  So that night we got to see the play, which was a lot of fun.  Katie is going to be giddy "for the rest of [her] life".  

Other highlights of London were the national gallery (saw some Van Gogh and Monet paintings...), the portrait gallery, Herrods (I touched a $10,000 jacket...), and the Borough Market, which is like a super-intense farmer's market where they were selling things like Ostrich eggs and truffle-infused honey.  The weather was mostly nice, but we got a few sprinkles in the middle of the day.  

We had another formal hall earlier this week, this time at Pembroke college.  Since the dining hall is under refurbishment for the summer, they had us eat in the old library, which was actually pretty cool.

Well, I'll drop some pictures down below.  We're excited to talk with you all about our experiences in a week!  Thanks for sharing the fun with us.

--Jordan


"Oh Katie, only red wine is against the Word of Wisdom."

(It's apple juice, don't worry.)

In the Junior Parlor before Formal Hall

Formal Hall at Pembroke 
Katie at the Botanical Gardens

Punting at Night!

Jordan was thrilled about shopping.

The sign says it all.

The villain from Doctor Who.  Scarier than he looks...

We've really enjoyed the authentic British food here.

Outside the theatre

Jordan, about to pull a Mike Tyson

Sunday, August 14, 2011

"All Good Things..."



All good things must come to an end.  I am, of course, referring to my mustache, which met its maker last Wednesday.  May it rest in peace.

In other news, Katie and I had a very eventful week.  Let’s start off with the most recent stuff, and work backwards - I’m just trying to make this as confusing as possible for you, our dear readers (all two of you).  This weekend, we decided to go on a bike trip to Hunstanton, which is on the northeast coast of England.  We had originally planned to go with another group last weekend, but we bailed out for some reason - I think the weather was looking sketchy.  But we went this weekend, and it was grand.  Katie and I rented bikes on Friday night, and took a little ride around Cambridge.  It was a revelation!  I can’t believe we’ve survived so long without having bikes; we got to see some things we never would have otherwise.  Cambridge is actually a very bike-friendly city, so it’s quite easy to commute this way.  That evening, though, we biked out west of the river Cam and visited a few of the more out-of-the-way colleges, like Newham college and B… B something.  Bismark?  Bloomberg?  Bulldozer.  Blast, I forgot.  Anyhow, it was lovely, and started with a B.  Or maybe R.  We’ve really enjoyed going to some of the smaller, periphery colleges in Cambridge.  They’re much less crowded, especially in the Summer.  Most people who visit Cambridge of course want to go visit St. Johns, or Trinity, or King’s, so they’re usually accosted with visitors during the daytime, but the further out colleges are more peaceful.  Lots of them have beautiful gardens, orchards, and even fruit trees.  
So we biked around those colleges, and followed the river up for a few miles before heading back home.  It’s just hard to put into words what a great city Cambridge is.  It’s one of the intellectual capitals of the world, but it still feels like a small, friendly town.  We’d love to come back here to study if we can - our program(me) actually held a workshop last week for those of us interested in returning for graduate work.  We’ll see what the future brings.  

Back to the bike trip, Katie and I - along with two other students - woke up early on Saturday and took a train to King’s Lynn, which is about 16 miles from the coast and Hunstanton, our destination.  Our route took us mostly through rolling hills and farm fields.  Strangely, we saw a lot of flattened hedgehogs along the road as well…  One of our party blew a tube along the way, but we were able to get it patched up and our journey proceeded without event.  After a few hours we rolled into Hunstanton, which is a beautifully quaint village on the beach.  And it’s quite an interesting beach - it’s extremely flat.  When we showed up, the water was probably a quarter mile off the embankment that separated the beach from the road, and by the time we left, the tide had come up all the way to that barrier.  So we frolicked in the water for a while, ate some delicious cinnamon-sugar donuts on the shore, and went to get fish and chips for lunch.  We rode back that night and took the train from Kings Lynn back to Cambridge.  Along the way, we stopped to get kebabs from a great little mediterranean place.  Predictably, I dropped mine while riding my bike and proceeded to run over it.
Today was another adventure for me.  My military intelligence class had a field trip to Bletchley Park, the secret British installation that was in charge of codebreaking during WWII.  We saw some pretty amazing stuff, most of which I didn’t begin to understand.  They had some working enigma machines and some hugely complex computers dedicated to breaking German encryptions.  It was very impressive.  

Oh, good news!  After resigning ourselves to the fact that we’d probably have to live in a cardboard box upon our return to Provo, we noticed one of the apartments in our old house up for rent on craigslist.  We called our old landlady up and got the place!  It worked out pretty nicely, and we’ll go back to living in another cozy little studio.  We’re thinking of buying a Japanese roll-up sleeping mat this time.  Small spaces are fun!

Well, we love you guys.  Enjoy some pictures!

Drinks on the lawn before a formal hall


The view from a window in King's Library



Getting rid of the mustache made me look younger:

Before 
After

Sneaking in the gate of Newham College

Katie,  thinking grassy thoughts.

I'd like a sign like this to use when I get back to the MTC.


England just has a thing for incredibly ironic signs. 
Getting started from Kings Lynn

"Shouldn't there be an app for this?"

Cruising into Hunstanton


These are the cliffs.  You can see how far out the tide is.

Jordan's feet are getting dirty.

Jordan, hiding his lack of mustache.

Walking on water


The water was surprisingly warm.
It's a clam-field!

Mossy rocks

Add caption

Ah, but where is the home of home cooked homes?

On top of the cliffs

Jordan, enjoying a profound slumber.


Katie has gotten pretty good at arm's-length-self-portraits.

Space, the final frontier.

And this is how far the tide came in. 


Sunday, August 7, 2011

Jolly Good

I have lots of good ideas.  They usually involve simplifying our life by doing things like:

having a hammock instead of a bed,
running without shoes,
eliminating the need for cooking and dishes by eating from a bucket,
using floor cushions and a coffee table instead of a couch, chairs, and a dining table,
building and living in an 89 square foot house,
commuting to work via unicycle,
storing all of our earthly possessions in my parents' kitchen (*cough* I promise we'll move it all out when we get back...),

etc.

You get the idea.  Luckily I have a wife, which means that most of my "good" ideas never see the harsh light of reality.  Usually.  Last week, my good idea was to cancel our Wymount apartment contract for the fall because of a better, smaller apartment we found somewhere else.  The manager offered it to us, and we accepted.  Of course, we cancelled our Wymount contract.  And, of course, the current tenant decided to stay after all.  Now we're in the middle of a new adventure--trying to find a place to live when we return to America in three weeks.  Hooray for us!

In other news, we had another eventful week full of reading, classes, and orange-chocolate kit-kat bars.  Module 2 classes officially started this week, which means I began taking my first formal classes in Cambridge; I'd just been working on research prior to this.  I'm taking two classes now--100 Years of Spooks and Spies and Development of the City.

100 Years of Spooks and Spies is, as you've probably guessed, a blast.  Our professor is a great guy who has studied this stuff for years.  Actually, I can't really think of a better place to be if you wanted to study military intelligence--Richard Dearlove, former head of MI6 (and, incidentally, the primary passenger on the only foreign plane to enter US airspace on September 12, 2001) is the master of Pembroke college, and Cambridge is full of research material.  Last Tuesday, a guest lecturer, Christopher Andrews, spoke to the PKP students.  Christopher Andrews is an interesting guy--he's a close friend of our professor, Dr. Martland, and he is the only historian who has been granted access to the MI5 archives.  He wrote the only authorized history of MI5, and last week he spoke to us about Col. Gaddafi.  It was a fascinating lecture about a really bizarre dictator.  Did you know that he called the CIA director on September 12 and offered to send food packets to the US?  Neither did I.  Strange, strange person.

MI5, by the way, is (sort of) the equivalent of the FBI, while MI6 is (sort of) Britain's version of the CIA.  As it turns out, Britain was pretty far ahead of the states in the intelligence game all the way up to the end of World War II.  During the war, the British set up a secret installation - alternatively called "Bletchley Park" or "Station X" - to intercept and attempt to decode German radio transmissions.  At the peak of its productivity, about 9,000 people were working on the project, yet they still maintained absolute secrecy.  Pretty impressive stuff.  But I'm getting ahead of myself.

The Development of the City class is also quite interesting.  Astute readers will notice that I had originally enrolled in a development economics class.  Well, that's true - I switched out to avoid death by powerpoint.  I figure there's plenty of time left for that once I graduate and begin a real career.  The class I'm in now is taught by a lovely man called Dr. Bullock who has studied architecture and city planning extensively.  I became interested in the topic during my supervision, actually - I was reading a book by James Scott called Seeing Like a State, which explored the effect of city planning on civic behavior within that city.  Extensively pre-planned cities like Brasilia, for example, tend to be somewhat dull and lifeless, but very politically safe; the wide open spaces and lack of small, winding roads make it difficult for chance meetings to occur or protests to begin.

In the class, we've been talking about the reconstruction of Great Britain after World War II, along with some of the efforts that went into the planning of New York.  We've spent some time on the debate between Robert Moses and Jane Jacobs, who basically represented opposite sides of the city planning movement in New York in the first half of the 20th century.  Fun fun!

We didn't do much travel this week, but we got to see a little more of the local side of Cambridge.  Yesterday Katie and I took a long walk down Mill Street, which is full of Chinese and Midlde Eastern shops and restaurants. We also went to the Natural History museum next door to our college, where we saw a recreation of the world's largest spider.  It was the size of a dog.  The night before, we hung out with some other students at a local pub and had a picnic of olives for dinner.  The food here is unexpectedly good, actually.  The British apparently haven't caught on to the American obsession with processed food yet.  And I'm fine with that.


Well, we send our love, as always, and hope you're all just doing splendidly.  I'm off to think of some more good ideas.

Katie's words of wisdom for the week: "Eat chocolate.  Painting is fun."

"It's everywhere you want to be."

"The T-Rex was discovered by Sir Isaac Newton in 1753."

"Why is Britain Great?"

"Because they eat eggs, onion rings, and ribs for breakfast."

"Blue Steel"